Mid-Week Gettaway

South Beach
A Secret Getaway

February 17, 2015

Sunny and 65 at 7am, a nice morning to start our South Beach Getaway. After breakfast and packing we loaded the luggage, dog beds, food and treats into the car and headed for Denise’s place. She had offered to keep the kids for the two days wed be gone. Then it was off to the freeway for the trip east to Miami.

Since it was a nice day we decided to stop at Shark Valley in the Everglades National Park and take the narrated 15 mile tram ride. This was something we’d been thinking about for the past two years but being about 80 miles we had held off.

We took I-75 then cut down to US-41 (Tamiami Trail) at FL 29 which runs between Immokalee and Everglades City. Making a left onto US-41, we made the drive to the Shark Valley entrance and entered the Everglades NP. 

There were a lot of cars parked along the highway and a fairly long line of cars waiting to enter the park. When we got to the entrance gate, the Ranger informed us it would be at least two hours until the next tram was available. So we decided to wait for the return trip and went back to the highway where we resumed our drive.

Tina set up google maps to get to our destination so all we had to do was let Siri tell us where to turn! Ain’t technology great? 

We arrived at our destination only to find that there was no parking, only valet parking. So we dropped off the car at the valet stand and with suitcase in tow entered the “Breakwater Esplanador” hotel, on Ocean Blvd at 7^th, right across from the beach!! 

Lunch at the Pelican on Ocean Blvd

After checking in we went to our room, got everything put away then walked to lunch. We stopped at the Pelican Restaurant for a salad and soup, then went for a walk on the beach.

South Beach looking North

There were lots of people everywhere you looked. After dipping our toes in the water we strolled north past the tents where the Miami Food Festival was being set up on the beach. Quite an undertaking as the tents ran for 4 city blocks along the beach.

Nearing the end of the Boardwalk

Eventually we cut back to the boardwalk, actually a meandering paved walkway next to the beach dunes, and continued our stroll. Unexpectedly, the pavement gave way to a brick “Esplanade” that ran for another two blocks along the front of the Ritz Carlton and Delano Hotels on 17^th. At this time we decided to head back to the hotel and followed the sidewalk along Ocean Blvd continuing to ‘people watch’ along the way.

Dressed for Dinner

Back in our room we took some time to relax before dressing for dinner. We had reservations for 6pm at “A Fish Called Avalon” which was only two blocks away on Ocean Blvd. Tina had brought some dressy clothes so we actually looked like we belonged, heh, heh!!

Party time in South Beach

Ocean Blvd, being the street running along the ocean front in South Beach, has all the hotels and restaurants on the west side of the street fronting on the sidewalk. Each of the hotels have their own restaurant and have spread large umbrellas across the sidewalk with tables along both sides of the sidewalk. This is great for outdoor dining and as the night goes on, turns into a party atmosphere with loud music and crowds of people wandering by the diners! Walking along the sidewalk, you feel like you are walking a gauntlet with dinner hosts trying to get you to sit at their establishment amid a swirl of other people out for a walk or heading to their dinner/party destination!

Arriving at the restaurant we were seated outdoors on the veranda above the sidewalk where we could continue people watching from our raised platform! A Fish Called Avalon is a noted seafood restaurant so Tina ordered a 1 lb Maine Lobster which came split in half and chilled, served on a bed of ice with a light underneath the ice, along with a Caesar Salad, making a very stunning presentation and tasty too!!

Split Lobster Tail on a bed of Ice

I had the Seafood Risoto which was absolutely delicious, with lots of shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels, clams and fresh fish along with roasted garlic, english peas, tomato and basil. Ummmm, ummm! We were too full for desert so we headed back to our hotel, but this time by crossing the street and walking on the ocean side of Ocean Blvd in order to avoid the crush of people on the hotel side.

The next morning dawned cloudy, rainy and about 15 degrees cooler than the day before. After getting up and checking on the weather we wandered downstairs to breakfast on the veranda (included with the room). Since we had been to South beach before we decided to check out a couple of different tourist attractions. We ordered the car from the valet and had another cup of coffee while we waited. Since the cars are parked in a parking garage about five miles away, it usually takes about 15 minutes for it to arrive.

Once the car got there, we set up Siri to give us directions to the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens in south Miami, along the shore of Biscayne Bay. 

Rain greets us as we leave the car

After parking we got our tickets and walked to the Mansion to tour the inside.

Vizcaya was built between 1914 and 1922 in the Coconut Grove area of Miami, as the winter residence of industrialist James Deering. The estate was entirely surrounded by subtropical forest on the shores of Biscayne Bay. Conceived as a modern and subtropical interpretation of an eighteenth-century Italian villa, in particular the country estates of the Veneto region of northern Italy, the mansion and grounds is an oasis of silence and green, miraculously preserved just south of Miami’s modern skyline. 

The house was designed to take full advantage of its location on Biscayne Bay. Deering wanted Vizcaya to be approached and seen from the sea, and the east façade on the bay is the most monumental and the only symmetrical one—it opens onto a wide terrace that descends toward the water.

The front entrance to Vizcaya

Walking up the steps and into the entrance we were greeted by a huge courtyard around which the entire house is built. Originally open to the sky, the courtyard is now covered by a massive skylight. As we made our way around the first floor we saw several reception rooms, the Library, the Music Room, and the Dining Room. (Interior photography is not permitted). goto:  http://vizcaya.org/ 

On the second floor were Deering’s personal suite of rooms and guest bedrooms as well as a Breakfast Room and the Kitchen. Every room had artworks and tapestries. The floors were done in mosaics of stone and all the doors were hand carved.

Breakwater boat landing on Biscayne Bay

Walking outside onto the terrace facing Biscayne Bay, we saw the docking facilities for guests visiting by water. A large stone breakwater was built in the image of an old sailing vessel and provided space for afternoon parties and tea. The landing area swept around in an arc reaching out to a gazebo on one side and the entrance to a hidden grotto on the other.

Looking north towards Miami - the prow of the breakwater

Casino at the south end of the Quay

Tina inside the Casino

We left the seaside landing and made our way to the café and gift store for lunch. Occupying the original space for the billiards and game rooms, the café is next to the indoor/outdoor swimming pool which is under restoration.

Left half of fore gardens

After lunch we walked to the gardens. Vizcaya’s European-inspired gardens are among the most elaborate in the United States. Reminiscent of gardens created in seventeenth and eighteenth century Italy and France, the overall landscape design is conceived as a series of rooms.

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The central space is dominated by low hedges, or parterres, in a geometric arrangement. Beyond that are the evocative Secret Garden, the intimate Theater Garden, the playful Maze Garden and the once-watery domain of the Fountain Garden. On either side of this designed landscape Deering preserved the native forest.

Large fountain being renovated

One of many statues in the garden

Vizcaya’s exuberant gardens are characterized by an abundance of architectural structures and details, elaborate fountains, and antique and commissioned sculptures. The use of sculptures that were already old and of soft and porous coral stone resulted, quite intentionally, in the gardens having a weathered appearance soon after their completion. To further the appearance of age, numerous mature trees, along with vines and plants were added that would drape themselves over the garden structures.

Cascading waterfall

Ivy covered structures

After several hours in the gardens we decided to head back to the hotel and take a break before dinner. About 5:30 we decided to walk over to the 11^th Street Diner for dinner. It was featured in Guy Fierri’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dive” and was supposed to be pretty good. We both had sandwiches and enjoyed a pleasant dinner in a real Diner!! 

11th Street Diner

We walked home along Washington Street then over to Ocean Blvd amid throngs of people out for a good time. Everywhere it was like a rolling party!! Back at the hotel we settled in for our last night before heading home.

Shark Valley Tram Station

The next morning we got up around 7am and packed our bag then checked out and had breakfast. Our car was brought to us and we headed off to try Shark Valley again. Much colder this morning and the wind was up but with a stop at Starbucks we made it to Shark Valley and got our tram tickets for the 11am tour.

Immature Ibis

Little Blue Heron

Everglades National Park protects only the southern one-fifth of the historic Everglades ecosystem. Even so, it is the third largest National Park in the lower 48 and boast the largest biodiversity of any place in the United States. In its entirety, this massive watershed boasts a multitude of habitats that provide a subtropical refuge to a unique assemblage of wildlife. With the passage of time and the growth of human population centers in south Florida, the park serves a new role: serving as a touchstone against which to gauge the impacts of man on the natural world.

The Everglades comprise a vast, interconnected mosaic of distinct ecosystems. These diverse habitats are in a state of constant change, subject to the influences of a full suite of environmental processes. Geology, hydrology, air quality, water quality, fire regime, weather, and climate are but a few of the many natural factors that help shape the development of landscapes in the Everglades.

Alligator warming up from the cold night

We started on the tour and our guide, Robert, talked about the different environmental zones and differences in habitat, along with seasonal effects. Right away we started seeing lots of alligators alongside the road near the deeper water holes and Willow stands. And of course there were lots and lots of birds.

Viewing Tower at Mile Seven

Seven miles out we made a stop at the viewing tower where we could look out over the grass prairies and woodlands. Tina spotted a family of “Yellow Crowned Night Herons” nesting in the trees nearby along with several “White Egrets” and alligators floating below. There were several “Great Blue Herons”, lots of “Anhingas” with young, immature “Little Blue Herons”, White Ibis” and many more species. Even though it was cold and windy, the sightings were pretty spectacular.

Young Anhingas ready for breakfast

Leaving the viewing tower we managed to spot several families of Anhingas feeding their fledglings in the nest. As we arrived back at the tram station, Tina spotted a young Anhinga with wings spread. As our guide mentioned, this was not just to dry off but also to warm up. Since they have no oil in their feathers, when they dive the water gets all the way to the skin, thus the need to warm up.

Anhinga taking some needed sun

We left Shark Valley around 1:30 and made a lunch stop at the Micosuckee Restaurant then pushed on to Denise’s where we picked up the kids and drove home. 

A very nice mid-week getaway!!

To see all our photos, click on:

http://picasaweb.google.com/mjdolanski

Paddling the Estuaries of Clam Bay

December 27th

The girls and I got up late this morning. I had checked tides yesterday and wanted to be in the water by 8am which meant getting up by 6:30. But once up, the fog was so thick I was no longer in a hurry.

After getting our breakfasts out of the way and giving them their morning walk I went to the garage to load up. This morning I decided to take the Perception Sport 9.5 to explore Clam Bay and it's estuaries.

Historically, Clam Bay was tidally connected to the Gulf of Mexico via Wiggins Pass to the north, Doctor's Pass to the south and centrally located Clam Pass. The northern and southern ends of Clam Bay became isolated in the 1950's when roads were constructed leaving Clam Pass as the only connection to the Gulf.

Captain Mike off on another adventure!!

With the kayak on the car I grabbed my camera, water bottle, life jacket, phone paddle and water shoes, loaded them into the car and drove to Clam Pass Park at the end of Seagate. The "put in" is located at the end of the parking lot near the start of the boardwalk to the beach.

The path to the "Put-In" at Clam Pass Park

After parking the car I unloaded the kayak and carried it down to the water along with all my gear. Switching to my water shoes I pushed off and climbed aboard. It was 8:30am.

Ready to hit the water!

Definitely foggy!

The fog was slowly lifting as I started to head up Outer Bay toward the pass.

The "Put In" is at Marker 1

The estuary spans approximately 600 acres and includes an elongated system of shallow bays and mangrove swamps that connect to the Gulf at Clam Pass. Today Clam Bay is almost entirely surrounded by development.

On a side note, I captain small electric boats taking people on eco-tours of the Gordon River for the Conservancy of Southwest Florida. The Conservancy is assisting in the restoration efforts of Clam Bay by monitoring the mangrove ecosystem for recovery and growth.

"Snake Bird" waiting for breakfast

As I paddled North towards the smallest drawbridge in Florida, I passed one of the numbered channel markers with an Anhinga perched atop it, waiting for lunch to pass by. Anhingas and Cormorants are also called "Snake Birds" because they have no oil in their feathers and, like a loon, sit very low in the water with just their neck sticking out of the water looking like a snake.

Nearing the drawbridge

The drawbridge was built to accommodate several sailboat owners living along the shore of Outer Clam Bay. The drawbridge portion is about 6' wide and on the right in the photo. Over the years the mangroves have continued to encroach into the waterway. Along with continuous shoalling, the channel is only deep enough for passage at high tide but with the mangroves blocking most of the channel  I don't think it's used any more.

Continuing under the bridge, the outgoing tide pulled me northward. Rounding the last barrier island I entered the channel leading to Clam Pass an the Gulf. The current got much stronger the closer I got to the Pass.

He's actually on the other side of this flock

Just before entering the Gulf I managed to ground myself on a shoal and get my camera out. Both sides of the pass had large flocks offshore birds, pelicans, egrets and herons.

After taking some photos I struggled  against the current back through the pass to the start of the Mangrove tunnels at marker 13 and the south boardwalk.

Yellow Crowned Night Heron with Breakfast

Entering the Mangrove Tunnels

From marker 13 to marker 24 I wound my way north on a twisty, turney path. At one point I passed a what looked like a Yellow Crowned Night Heron standing on a sand bar with a crab in his beak trying to figure out the best way to swallow it.

Snowy Egret

Reaching Inner Clam Bay, I slowly paddled the half mile up the bay past marker 25 and under the north boardwalk entering the most scenic of the Mangrove tunnels. All along this stretch of the estuary, the overhanging mangrove cast their reflections on the still water prompting several stops for photos.

What will I find around the next bend?

Symmetry of Earth and Water

Upper Clam Bay

By the time I reached marker 31 and entered Upper Clam Bay the current of the outgoing tide was nearing its peak, so I decided to turn around and take advantage of the tide. Quickly slipping back through the Mangrove tunnels to Inner Clam Bay.

Along this half mile stretch across Inner Clam Bay I was treated to school after school of Mullet jumping and dancing along the surface of the water. They were all around me and put on quite a show! Unfortunately, every time I pointed my camera in one direction they broke out in another so I gave up and continued paddling.

Mud Flats

Everybody is looking for Breakfast

After completing the last section of Mangrove Tunnels and arriving back at marker 13, I expected the tide to have reached its low point (10:15am) and give me a half hour of slack tide but I forgot to adjust for the distance from Gordon Pass where my tide reading is set, so I was about 45 minutes to an hour off in my calculations.

Winding through the mud flats I passed several groups of birds. In order to stop for photos I had to ground on the shore or risk being carried back toward the pass.

Osprey having a nice fish breakfast!

The sun is finally coming out

Arriving back at the "Pull Out"

By now it was 11:15 and I still had a mile to go. As the sun finally whisked away the last of the fog I reached the "pull out" to complete my journey. What a great paddle! And just in time for lunch!!